For identification among the rest of Nikkormats is quite easy, a 'FT' precedes the serial number on the camera body and the letter 'N' is inscribed next to the film rewind knob and above the light meter window on the top of the camera.Moose Peterson, in his NIKON SYSTEM HANDBOOK (3rd edition) lists several modifications to the F4 made early in the production run, between serial numbers.It is heavy at 780g (my Zenit E is 700g which is my benchmark for 35mm camera weights) which means that it is easier to hold steady The EL2 is still part of the Nikkormat/Nikomat family, sharing the same body and many.The Nikkormat body is also available in black finish. (I now have a Nikon F2 Photomic as well).This is my latest find an early Nikon FM (Serial Number 2194502). This Nikkormat EL is metal and manual (although it does have automatic exposure if I want it) even though it is from Nikon’s amateur range. I have Nikon F301 and Nikon F601 cameras already but I cannot consider these ‘proper’ – made from plastic, digital readouts, nearly everything automatic. Scr - Number of screws in the lens mount, useful for identifying pre-AI and AI versions 5- 5 slot screws 3+ 3 cross-head screws etc Notes - Identifying features of the lens and points of interest Start No - Serial number of first lens made Confirmed - Earliest and latest serial numbers seen lens added to list in last 6 monthsThis is my first proper Nikon camera.If we assume that production was even over the five years (not a safe assumption) that would suggest that my camera, serial number 5 208 996, was made in the second year – 1973 – but perhaps 1974.Layout of the camera is pretty much standard for an SLR camera. The Interweb tells me that Nikkormat serial numbers started at 5,000,000 and that 500,000 cameras were made over five years. That is a veritable age for any machine. This camera was made between 19 so this camera is between 44 and 48 years old. The whole camera is painted black with black leatherette.This film advance lever has two rest positions. This is brass with a plastic cover on the tip (it is easy to see the materials used due to the wear in the black paint). Starting on the right is the film advance lever.After advancing the film, the lever returns to the 30º rest position ready for the next shot. When advancing the film, the lever moves through 105º (I got the angle from Nikon’s printed manual).There is no ratchet so the lever must be moved in one sweep – 105º is easy enough. At this position, the camera is ready for use – meter is on and shutter release button is unlocked.
Nikkormat S Serial Numbers Seen LensEven numbers are in white, odd numbers are represented by dots. S is actually -2 to allow for the wastage of two frames of film to move the film past the part that is fogged when loading the new film. In standard Japanese fashion, this frame counter is reset (to S) when the camera back is opened. I am not sure of the point of this as the lever sticking out is easier to see than the red dot.In front of the film advance lever is the window to the frame counter. This second thread is not industry standard but, presumably, a Nikon peculiarity. There is a second thread around the shutter release collar. This thread is inside the button. This is chrome plated metal and is threaded for an industry standard cable release. Film can be advanced beyond 36 frames but the frame counter will no longer increase.Next to the frame counter is the shutter release button. It was Nikon’s expectation that this camera would be used in A most of the time – A stands for Automatic exposure. This must be by design but I assume that it is unmarked because either Nikon or the shutter maker (Copal) did not like it for some reason.As well as the shutter speeds, there is the option of A. If you set the speed dial to the centre of this gap, you get a shutter speed of 8 seconds (timed by my watch). Between 4 seconds and B is a large, unmarked gap. This offers 13 shutter speeds from 4 seconds to 1/1000 seconds plus B. There are two settings: a white bulb or a red lightning flash. This is done by lifting the dial and turning. The shutter speed dial is also used to set the flash synchronisation. Unhide tabs on excel for macOn the back of the pentaprism hump is the viewfinder eyepiece. At this age, there are no secondary contacts for specific flash guns. This has a central contact and so is a hot shoe. On top of this is an accessory shoe. In the middle of this 12 mm circle is a second, 3mm, circle. This circle does not do anything but indicates the area where the majority of the light measurement occurs – this is called centre-weighted measurement. In the centre is a 12 mm circle. The one in my camera is plain ground glass. There were two of these available. You can vary this selected speed by altering the lens aperture.When the user is using manual exposure, the green pointer indicates the shutter speed the user has selected and the black pointer indicates the shutter speed that the camera would like you to use.On the left of the pentaprism hump is the rewind crank. There is a second, black, pointer which points to the shutter speed that the camera has selected. In this case, there is a green pointer which sits at the top of the scale, marked A. As mentioned earlier, Nikon’s expectation is that you would use this camera in A mode. This secondary catch consists of a small black tab on the left of the rewind crank which must be pulled towards the rear as the crank is pulled up. I have never seen this before but then I have not seen other Nikon cameras of this vintage. Not so usual is the presence of a catch to release the catch so the back cannot be opened accidentally. Again as is usual on Japanese cameras, this crank double as the catch for the back. On the left end of the top plate is a PC socket for flash. When the button is pressed, the lamp is lit if the battery is good. Next to this is a small orange lamp. The selected film speed is indicated by a red dot.On the back of the top plate, behind the rewind crank, is a small white button recessed in a chrome surround. To set this, a chrome tab must be pressed in while the outer ring is turned. This is in ASA only (no DIN speeds) and runs from 25 ASA to 1600 ASA. The big change in the mount was AI or Automatic Indexing. This is Nikon’s famous F bayonet mount.This mount has been in use since 1959 but has been changed subtlety in that time. On the front corners of the top plate are strap lugs.The front of the camera is dominated by the lens mount. This tells the camera’s light meter which aperture has been selected. As the aperture of the lens is changed, this prong moves with the lens’ aperture ring and moves the camera’s pin. When fitting a lens to the camera, this prong fits around a pin on this camera’s lens mount. This prong sits by the ƒ/5.6 on the aperture ring. The important part is that this camera was made before the AI system and needs to use pre-AI lenses (later lenses can be used but with varying degrees of loss of camera function).Pre-AI lenses have ‘rabbit ears’ or a prong on the top of the mount. ![]() This is a bit fiddly as is inserting the battery but is achievable.While looking at the front of the camera, there are two items on the right of the mount. To get at this, you need to manually raise the mirror (details later) and flip up the battery compartment cover. The battery compartment is inside the mount throat at the bottom. In the centre is the reflex mirror – the silvering on these is quite delicate and should not be touched. This is the lever that a closes down the lens’ aperture when the shutter release button is pressed. If this is incorrect it is an indication that the manual indexing needs doing.Inside the throat of the lens mount there is little to see.There are no electrical contacts yet at this age and there is just the one mechanical linkage.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorJames ArchivesCategories |